Let's take a look at how the HDR function works and what it is in practice.
You will learn how to set the mode most efficiently and get perfect photos, even on a smartphone with average specifications.
That is why, in recent years, companies have been improving camera performance through pre-programmed “smart” modes.
The built-in camera options, which users often do not pay attention to, will significantly improve the quality of shooting.
HDR is one such function. Let's take a closer look at how it works and how to take high-quality pictures with it.
Content:
What it is?
In fact, it is a built-in option that allows you to adjust the high dynamic range. Activation allows the camera to take quick and consistent shots.
The algorithm then automatically assigns a different shutter speed and exposure to each frame.
All further frames will be combined into one image to achieve best effect shooting.
The hardware principle of DHR operation is in autofocus operation, which alternately focuses on several areas of the frame with different levels of illumination.
In a broad sense Is the technology of the future that delivers the best color and depth. The user can find such a mode not only in the smartphone camera settings, but also in professional cameras, video editing software, games and LCD displays.
Why is the function good for smartphones?
For phones and tablets, it allows you to achieve improved picture detail, determine the appropriate level of contrast and clarity for a frame or video.
For example, in the usual version of shooting, objects with different chromaticity and level of distance from are always included in the frame.
Only some of the detected objects will be in focus of the camera, so it is better to use HDR.
High dynamic range allows you to focus on each subject.
Sharpness settings are saved, as a result you get a high-quality picture.
It is better to use the mode if the shooting is carried out from a tripod (that is, absolutely still), because it is in this state that the phone captures several frames better and compares them to obtain the resulting image.
Advantages and disadvantages
Minuses:
- There is no way to shoot objects that are moving. Since the camera in HDR mode shoots multiple frames at intervals of milliseconds, capturing a moving subject will fail. The final picture will be blurry, not focused;
- Problems getting a bright shot. Different frame rates do not allow obtaining maximum brightness values. Normal shooting options produce a bright picture, while the option gives priority to the background and the central subject in the picture;
- The shooting process slows down. Working with multiple frames for one image will slow down even the fastest cameras. If every second counts to create a photo or doesn't process commands quickly enough, it won't be the right option for the job.
Settings interface - we select the parameters correctly
It should be noted that HDR is not only about the camera's shooting mode. Many have come across this acronym in the form of video formats that smart TVs or regular computers play.
Let's take a closer look at what it is and how it differs from standard formats.
You can understand the value of this indicator for video files using the example of how an image from the real world enters our screens, creating a standard SDR (standard dynamic range).
Traditionally, the process takes place in the following way :
1 The visible image of the real world that has a very wide range of brightness, modern amateur and even powerful professional cameras cannot capture to the fullest. They cannot capture the entire range, but they recognize most of it;
3 The next step is mastering(converting the video track to standard digital or analog signal that the technician can depict);
4 To fit the resulting wide signal gamut into the small standard gamut of the device, have to significantly thin out, compress and crop the original color... It turns out that although they give an impressive increase in the clarity of the picture, but almost no dynamic range there is no picture.
Modern TVs, which are able to display the picture in much larger boundaries, automatically try to enrich and embellish the standard signal.
However, the desired effect is not always achieved, which is why conventional SDR does not have that unique color depth and exposure.
Unlike the standard range, HDR sets new luminance spaces for video. As a result, after capturing the camera and post-production, the video retains the maximum exposure settings and in the future it can be transferred without problems for playback on different devices... The quality will be maintained regardless of where the video is played.
The mode supports a range of up to 10,000 nit ( while normal SDR only supports 100 nit ), and 4K video can only output a range of 500-800 nit.
By the way, displays that would support all 10,000 nit have not yet been invented, which gives the mode the opportunity to be widely used in the future.
Fig. 6. - scheme for providing high dynamic range
Side-by-side comparison of the two modes:
Fig. 7. - comparison of two options
Responding to your numerous requests, in this issue we will introduce you in more detail to one of the most interesting technologies creation and processing of images - HDRi ( High Dynamic Range image). This concept came into use not so long ago, translated from of English language it means "high dynamic range of the image".
So. To obtain a file, we need at least three frames with different exposure levels, in which there is a maximum of information, both in the light and in the shadows. To do this, there is either automatic bracketing, or manual (shooting sequentially several frames with different exposures), or the RAW format, from which you can make the required number of original frames with a maximum exposure of 2–2.5 stops. We will not consider separately each of the methods for obtaining the source frames, since this is not reflected in the final result. I just want to say that the RAW format is preferable, and much more, since it does not require subsequent alignment of frames and the fight against moving elements in the image, which, with standard bracketing, will necessarily "scatter". To top it all off, it contains 12-bit information. In principle, all digital cameras shoot in this "raw" format, it is simply not available with digital cameras, unlike DSLRs. And if you make bracketing in RAW format, then there will be even more information.
For clarity, let's create a picture that is posted at the beginning of the article. The shooting was done in RAW format. Software used: RAW converter CaptureOne, a program for HDR creation-Images PhotomatixPro, and Photoshop.
Using a converter CaptureOne(although you can use any other, this is already a matter of taste) I made five converted files from the original image with the exposure (-2.0) - (-1.5) - (-1.0) - (-0.5) - (0). Here we will make a small lyrical digression. Why five "development", and why only "minus"? The bottom line is this: the more contrasting the frame, the larger the range of the fork should be for detailed elaboration of light and shadows, and the greater the number of frames. It is not at all necessary to make a symmetrical exposure. In this case, the original picture clearly shows that everything is in order with the shadows, there are no failures, but the sky is quite overexposed, and it is the sky that we want to make more interesting in order to give the picture a completely different mood. Sometimes you need to do it only in plus or minus, and often not symmetrical. It all depends on the starting material and the result you want to get. The number of files can also be any, but not less than three (however, you shouldn't get too carried away with this and do more than 10). Otherwise, if you have unworked elements in your image, you will get black or (most often) white spots in their place.
It should be noted that many digital cameras allow you to take up to 5 frames of bracketing, which is quite useful for such work. The main thing is to choose the right exposure and metering type for such a composition. The more contrasting the frame, the wider the fork should be, especially if it is not a RAW format.
Now is the time to start the program PhotomatixPro... So, File - Open, select the folder with our source files and click OK. It should be noted that the program works great with both eight- and sixteen-bit source files of all formats, therefore, when converting from RAW, it is preferable to do 16-bit TIFF for maximum information safety. After all our files are open, we need to choose the option of what we will do with them. Here I will only briefly dwell on some of the program's capabilities, since it allows you to do more than just create HDR files. But due to the limitation of the volume of the article, I will not be able to tell about absolutely all the delights of this program - so you have a wonderful opportunity to familiarize yourself with its interesting nuances on your own. I will only touch on some aspects and settings that you may need in the first place.
Menu item Combine that is, a combination.
These commands are designed to create the resulting (combined) files of the standard (source) format without creating HDRi. Average- summarized file based on open source. Highlights & Shadows - 2 images: Aligns shadows and highlights in only two images. Highlights & Shadows - Auto: Automatically align shadows and highlights. Highlights & Shadows - Adjust: custom alignment. Highlights & Shadows - Intensive: for 8-bit images only.
The menu that we need and are interested in in the first place is HDRi.
Before creating a picture, only two items are active in it.
GenerateHDR- creation (generation) of HDRi.
ToneMapping- tone mapping (compression of the dynamic range of the image according to its customizable algorithms to bring it to a standard 8- or 16-bit format for later use). It should be noted that here you can do tone mapping without intermediate creation of an HDR file. The results will be almost similar, but only "almost". The fact is that when tone mapping is applied without creating HDRi, color information will be noticeably lost, and in the area of deep shadows and highlights, it can be practically lost. That is, dark trees can turn out to be black, and a pale blue sky just gray. If you plan to create a monochrome final file, then this can be neglected, but in this case it is not practical. Again when creating HDR-file, you will be able to visually make sure that you have chosen the right exposure, otherwise gaps may form, which I mentioned above and it will be difficult for you to understand the reason for not very successful processing in ToneMapping... So, in any case, especially at the beginning of your work, always create HDR... You do not have to save it, but use it only as a visual indicator of the correctness of bracketing. Push Ctrl+ G, the drop-down menu displays open files(the operation of selecting files can be done in this menu, bypassing the preliminary opening). After clicking OK in the next menu, you are presented with a choice of curves to create HDR... The best results are obtained using standard curves (default), although you can experiment with them. Finally, check the box in the menu AlignLDRimagesbeforegeneratingHDRImage(align images before creating HDRi) if using conventional bracketing.
After some time of intensive work of the computer, it will give you this (or very similar) picture. It does not look very attractive, but I have already said that the monitor is not able to correctly and completely display our HDR file for the reasons already described. However, in the program Photomatix there is an interesting tool - a dynamic loop ( HDRViewer). By moving the mouse cursor across the screen in the magnifying glass window, you can view in detail the real information with quantitative indicators of coordinates, brightness and each of the color channels, which is located in the lower part of the magnifying glass window. Thus, by going through the whole picture, especially in problem areas, you can make sure that all the shadows and all the light are well developed. If this is not the case, try changing the exposure in the RAW development or playing a little with the selection of the generation curves. If this does not help (in the case of real bracketing), then you can try a little manual editing of the original files. The fact is that sometimes you still have to resort to manual correction of the original files - until you learn how to immediately select a subject for subsequent processing with HDR technology.
Now the most interesting and creative moment of work begins, on which the entire final result depends - this is tone mapping!
Here we will have to dwell in more detail, since this operation determines 80 percent of the entire final result. All sliders are now set to "default" position. The meaning of each for the picture is enormous, and it is very difficult to say right away what is needed and how to move for such and such a result, since they are all interconnected. Let's start with the main and most "strong" ones in terms of impact.
Strength- stretching (strength of stretching the range between adjacent pixels). With a value of 0, we get a simple resulting file. The value 100 is the maximum.
Luminosity- illumination (accepted values from -10 to +10) - the influence on the overall picture is very large, so it presents you with a huge field for experiment. Affects the brightness and contrast of the entire image.
Colorsaturation- color saturation (probably the most “calm” and predictable slider). Enhances saturation. I recommend almost always moving it to the 60-80 percent range, as the compression operation introduces some color loss (especially if you do it without creating an HDR file). Do this at the very end of processing.
WhiteclipandBlackclip- cropping the light and dark areas of the histogram. The greatest influence is Blackclip, therefore, it is a little more careful and gentle with him. Enhance the overall contrast of the image. Try not to cut out the shadows unnecessarily to avoid large dips. This will be clearly seen on the histogram. Strongly related to the engine Luminosity, which significantly changes the position and shape of the histogram.
LightSmoothing- smoothing highlights. It can take 4 values. High - Medium - Low - VeryLow... Most applicable High and Medium(high and medium). Low and VeryLow(low and very low) can be used if there are only large and very large objects in the picture, otherwise their impact on small objects leads to "blurring" and loss of volume.
MicrocontrastLevel- the level of micro-contrast. Accepts the same values as LightSmoothing... Most applicable High and Medium... Smooth engine added to fixed values MicrocontrastSmoothing- smoothing the micro-contrast. It smoothly determines the strength of the impact.
As a rule, to determine the strength of the impact of a particular parameter, it is required to set it to extreme values to determine the boundaries, and then smoothly achieve the desired result.
If you give a short advice, then try to keep the teams Whiteclip and Blackclip a histogram within reasonable limits, without cropping too much of the shadow, since the resulting file will have a slightly higher contrast than you see - this is some feature of the program. You just have to select the bitness of the file (I prefer 16 bits for post-processing) and click OK.
After 10–20 seconds, you get the result. Save it and go to Photoshop.
As you can see, the histogram of the picture is almost perfect and does not require any correction. However, let us now turn to the problems that appeared in the image, which will have to be dealt with.
First are noises. As I said, they have increased significantly, and especially in the shadows. Therefore, the first recommendation arises: always shoot at the lowest sensitivity. Even ISO 400 on the SLR digital camera already too much, since the picture can be significantly damaged. This is especially true of the maximum levels of impact of engines Luminosity and Strength... We fight noise with our favorite filter NeatImage.
Second- aberration. Let's enlarge the same fragment of the original and the resulting image at the edge of the frame.
In the first, original image, chromatic aberration is not very noticeable, although the shooting was done with a wide-angle lens. SIGMAAF 15-30 ... But in the final picture, it just catches the eye. Tone mapping enhances all such defects. It is difficult to deal with these, especially on digital cameras, since their optics are much weaker than those of SLR cameras, especially at the edges of the frame. I'm not talking about fighting them in the editor, quite significantly (albeit with some loss of clarity) this unpleasant effect can be weakened by applying a filter LensCorrection... Just keep this in mind when shooting and, if possible, arrange the composition so that you can crop it out by 30 percent, since the effect is especially visible at the edges of the frame.
Third- local contrast.
When tone mapping, save all your settings with Save in the bottom corner of the panel. If you find such problem areas, then try to reduce the contrast or clarity on the source files at these points as much as possible. If you look closely at the pictures, you will see that they need to be reduced very slightly. Although this is a laborious operation, by writing it down in Actions, you can easily apply it to all frames. Then reopen them in Photomatix and by downloading the settings with the command Load, you will definitely repeat the previous processing, but with a completely different result. And the last option remains - manual "cleaning".
There is very little left. Slightly muffle the color of greenery and the brightness of the water. To do this, open our original image with the correction equal to (0), copy it to the clipboard and overlay it as a separate layer on our picture, changing the blending mode to Darken(blackout). Set the layer's opacity to 30% and flatten the layers.
On this, perhaps, that's all. It should be noted that HDR is very fond of texture. These are stone, buildings, water, sky, earth, etc. Pictures are striking in their clarity of details. You have already understood by what means and how this is achieved. You can work on the sky like in no other editor, and it is not at all necessary to create such a surreal picture. The main thing is without "fanaticism" and with a sense of proportion.
Now, in another example, let's create an HDRi using Photoshop... At the same time, we will make a human being the main character.
For this work, I only needed three "development" of one RAW with the parameters of the fork (-1.0) - (0) - (1.5). I deliberately do not consider conventional bracketing, since everything is much easier and simpler with it.
We open Photoshop - File-Automate-Merge to HDR ...
On the tab that opens, select the files we need. If we do not use RAW format development, but real bracketing, then we need to check the box in the lower left window AttempttoAutomaticallyAlignSourceImages- "automatically align image sources". This is necessary for aligning frames, especially if the shooting was carried out "hand-held", without a tripod.
Click OK and ...
“There is not enough dynamic range in these photos to create HDR images»...
In this case, we are faced with the first important drawback of creating a picture in Photoshop... Obviously, this is due to insufficient development of software, in which the concept HDR just appeared in version CS2 ... The fact is that Photoshop(like other programs) works with EXIF frame information, in which all the necessary exposure data are written, etc. In this case, since the frames are made from one source image, then Photoshop"The roof is going" and we get what we get. But it doesn't matter, you just need to deceive him and do it very simply. It is necessary to depersonalize the original images by removing from them EXIF information. To do this, open the source files and for each file we do a sequence of operations (select all - copy - create a new image - paste - save) or more simply: Ctrl+ A-Ctrl+ C-Ctrl+ N- Ctrl+ V-Ctrl+ S by giving each new file its own name. Now by running the creation HDR as described above, we get a completely different result!
In this menu, we need to specify the exposure for each of the three frames (or manually enter the shooting parameters, which is less convenient). Remember I did the development RAW with exposure bracket (-1.0) - (0) - (+1.5). Enter these values for each image and click OK. In case of creation HDR images from real bracketing, these tweaks are not required and everything will go much faster. Perhaps this is the only drawback RAW, but only when working with Photoshop.
Here we will dwell in a little more detail. On the tab, we see the resulting frame, obtained by mixing the three original frames. Very often, especially when using real bracketing, the resulting frame on the monitor will immediately look very bright. To view it, move the white point slider. It is needed only for previewing the file and does not affect the final result. It is not yet HDR... Now we need to choose what we want to get out of this: 8-, 16- or 32-bit file. Sometimes it is enough to get just a 16- or 8-bit file, in which all the shadows and highlights are worked out, which is practically unattainable in a regular frame. But since we are talking about HDR, then we will create a 32-bit file by selecting in the top tab 32 bit/ Channel... Click OK again and wait for some time to create the file.
So, the file is created. Outwardly, it looks like in the previous picture, but this is only outwardly. In fact, you are observing a certain resulting image that can be displayed on the screen. You will not be able to print or view it in any of the graphical browsers. To work with such an image, 95% of all tools available in Photoshop... First, save it in the suggested format to disk.
Here is the time to make a second lyrical digression about the features. Photoshop... The fact is that further work with the file is very limited by the means that the editor has. There is no built-in flexible custom tone mapping necessary to create a real file, exactly the HDR image that we are most interested in. We can only convert this file into a regular 8- or 16-bit file with further processing. True, during the transformation itself, we can do something with it, albeit very little. Let's try. So, Image - Mode - 8 bit/WITHhannel.
Option number 1... Possibility of exposure and gamma correction. The choice is not very large and the result is not very interesting from an artistic point of view, although as an option to expand the dynamic range of the image, if the goal of creating something unusual is not pursued, it is quite acceptable. The purpose of the engines is clear from their names and do not require separate explanations.
Option number 2... Compression of highlights. The result cannot be controlled, as can be seen from the message, since adjustments are not available. You only have to rely on the default settings. The result is not very interesting, although in some cases it can take place.
Option number 3... Equalizer bar graph. Unfortunately, adjustments are not available here either. The result is similar to enhancing contrast.
Option number 4... Local adaptation. The most interesting, but also the most time consuming method of obtaining the final result. All adjustments and manual correction of the resulting frame by points on the original histogram are available. For a simplified result, simply repeat the control points along the envelope of the histogram, and then experiment with them to get the desired result. It is very tedious and difficult to get a normal result. In general, all these four tools are similar in properties to the tab Combine programs Photomatix only work worse. It is difficult to give specific recommendations here. Each result is very individual and depends on the requirements of the author and on his degree of "fanaticism".
As for the built-in elements for creating HDR images, then on this Photoshop exhausts itself. I'm not talking about the post-processing possibilities - here the editor's possibilities are endless, but that's another song. I hope that in the not too distant future the authors of the editor will fill these gaps in software since technology HDRi more and more popular.
Everything would be really bad if there was no separate plugin for Photoshop entitled ToneMapping, published by MultimediaPhoto SARL, for which special thanks to her. Let's run it and see what happens.
I will not describe the filter interface, since it is almost exactly the same, although not without a fly in the ointment. The point is that the parameters Smoothing and Microcontrast installed by default and cannot be changed to others. It can be seen that it is still somewhat "damp", but it is a matter of time. We stand our engines and click OK.
As I said earlier, after compression, the picture turns out to be noticeably more contrasting than on the filter preview.
For further processing, apply an adjustment layer with a filter. Hue/ Saturation in mode Colorize("Shading") and set its transparency at the level of 70-75%. Since toning is done in a separate layer, its parameters (color) can always be changed by going to this layer. It remains only to crop the picture, and this work can be considered completed.
It turns out that HDR technology i is quite applicable to people, albeit to a much lesser extent. Having tried to work with different images, you yourself will understand where and when this technology gives a clear advantage, and where it can ruin everything. And do not forget about the sense of proportion - this is very important.
HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) or simply HDR (High Dynamic Range) is a technology for working with images and video, the brightness range of which exceeds the capabilities of standard technologies.
Imagine that you decide to photograph a building with your phone camera. You are trying to shoot a building, but it turns out that it comes out too dark against a bright sky. Accordingly, it is very difficult to distinguish any details, while the human eye, looking at the building, sees and perfectly distinguishes all these details.
If we set the exposure on the building itself, highlighting this or that area, we will see the building in all its glory, but the sky will turn into a blur, "blurring" the picture. It turns out that we need to combine these two images into one, so that both the sky and the building are normally combined in the image. This is where HDR technology will help us, which actually combines several different images with different exposures, allowing us to get a high-quality photo.
Majority modern smartphones support the use of HDR technology, so, in theory, there is no need for a third-party application. But this is not always true, since in some cases the work of the HDR mode leaves much to be desired and it will help to get out of the situation. third party application, with which you can get much better images. In addition, they often have additional settings, including changing brightness, contrast, etc. Similar applications in Google play Market and App Store a great many, which of them copes better with their duties, it's up to you to download and try.
Please note that it is not recommended to use HDR mode while driving: several exposures of the same scene are used for the image, and if this scene suddenly changes, imagine what kind of photograph awaits you ...
Sample pictures in normal mode and HDR mode (right - HDR mode):
Is HDR the key to success?
No! In any case, not always, since the use of the HDR mode often negatively affects the image quality. For example, it is not recommended to photograph monochromatic subjects. Anyway, use different modes, try to take as many photos as possible to understand where and when to apply HDR mode.
To understand what HDR is, just look at the photos taken in this technique. We see a contrasting image with good detail in both light and dark areas. For comparison, you can look at a photo of the same area without HDR technology.
When a person looks at an area, his vision adapts to the lighting and details become clearly visible. The gaze rebuilds to different lighting quite quickly, so we can easily admire landscapes with complex lighting. In addition, the dynamic range that a person sees is large enough, which cannot be said about cameras.
If the camera adjusts the exposure for the highlights, they become normally distinguishable with all the details, but the shadows become completely black and there is a loss of detail in these areas. If you adjust the exposure for dark areas, detail will disappear in the overexposed areas.
HDR technology is designed to remove this limitation.
How does it look in practice?
- The camera is mounted on a tripod. All pictures should be taken from one place without the slightest camera movement. To completely eliminate camera vibrations, you need to shoot with a cable or a timer. You need to take several frames.
- Photos are taken with different exposures. The diaphragm should not change in this case.
- Then the received frames are combined on the computer. Can be used various programs but one of the best is the Photomatix Pro.
Practical lesson
Step 1: Exploring Camera Features
The manuals are pretty boring to read, but don't underestimate their importance. You need to learn all the functions of the camera in order to fully master all the tools and settings that the device offers. Particular attention should be paid to manual settings.
Step 2: Exploring Exposure Bracketing
Bracketing is the creation of several frames with different settings of a parameter. Bracketing makes it as easy as possible to get three or more frames with different exposures. You only need to press the shutter button once to capture a series of shots. If there is no bracketing function, you can take three shots manually by entering exposure compensation in turn.
Step 3. Aperture Priority Mode
Since the aperture value should be the same over the entire series of shots, this mode is best suited. You can also use fully manual mode, but this is not necessary.
Step 4. Metering mode
If you are not very familiar with the metering capabilities, then it is best to use evaluative (integral). The rest of the modes can also come in handy when shooting HDR, but they show their usefulness much less often. It all depends on the specific scene.
Step 5. White balance
White balance is most commonly used automatic, but don't always rely on automatic white balance. Sometimes it is worth setting the exact value of this parameter. It depends on the scene being filmed, weather, environment, etc.
Step 6. ISO
The ISO value should be set the same as in normal shooting, that is, as low as possible, so that the noise does not spoil the picture. But there is one nuance here. HDR photos are especially sensitive to noise, so this parameter should be given special attention. In case of a lack of light when shooting stationary subjects, it is better to reduce the ISO as much as possible and increase the shutter speed.
Step 7. Tripod
A tripod is undoubtedly a must for HDR shooting. It allows not only to rigidly fix the camera in one place, but also to place it in sometimes not the most convenient places for shooting. The main choice is the type of tripod. In general, they do not differ much from each other in terms of general principle work, but there are differences in fastening, size, presence of levels, etc.
Step 8. Remote shutter release
Even on a tripod, the camera can shake when you press the shutter button, so it's best to use a timer or cable release.
Step 9. Lens
Most often HDR is used when shooting cityscapes or natural landscapes. Therefore, a wide angle lens is the best choice.
But HDR can be used in any style of photography, so the rest of the lens types shouldn't be discounted.
Step 10. Manual focus
Autofocus can fail, no matter how modern it is. He can trivially focus the camera on a close object. This can cause the rest of the frame to become blurry. If your goal is to create a landscape shot with maximum detail, then it is worth switching to manual focus mode and setting the value to infinity. Thus, everything that appears in the field of view of the camera will be sharp.
Step 11 Leveling
A blocked horizon is the most unpleasant error that can be easily corrected programmatically, but why unnecessary actions. After all, it is better to do everything right at once. Some tripods have built-in levels, but if you don't have one, you can buy a separate bubble level that attaches to the hot shoe. You can somehow adapt the usual building level.
Modern cameras have technologically advanced very far in recent years with the development of digital technology. But there are moments in which the number cannot go over certain level... One of these points is the dynamic range of brightness in the finished pictures taken with a digital camera.
This dynamic range shows the ratio of the brightest part of the image to the not brightest, but not black. In reality, the value of the dynamic range of brightness can reach a million, but in technology such values cannot be achieved. And if the human eye is able to distinguish different gradations of brightness in such scenes, then a digital camera cannot capture all the shades in a photograph. In reality, the human eye can distinguish a range of 10,000: 1, and a good camera is 1000: 1. The difference is almost 10 times.
In-camera HDR is an image processing technology that allows you to see a high dynamic range of brightness.
The name comes from the English High Dynamic Range Imaging or HDR for short.
There is also a standard SDR range and a low LDR range.
In practice, HDR is used to capture high-contrast scenes. For example, shooting a dark subject against a bright sky. In the picture, either a normal sky with an almost black object or a normal object in brightness will come out, but the sky will turn out to be almost white. Although with our eyes in reality we see all the shades at the same time, both in bright and dark. This is due to the lack of dynamic range in the camera. By applying HDR, you can get a normal shot of such a scene.
To avoid such problems, you need to shoot different parts of the scene with different exposures. Make the exposure more for dark areas and less for light areas. But the camera adjusts the exposure for the entire frame, so this will not work. Here is the introduction different technologies and it turns out to take pictures with great contrast. And these technologies are called HDR.
How to take an HDR photo
In photography to receive HDR effect you need to take 3 or 5 pictures with different exposures and then combine them using graphic editor on the computer. Usually these are Photomatix Pro or Photoshop programs.
Three shots are taken with normal contrast and five if the scene is too contrasty to work out all the shadows. I usually take pictures with an exposure of 0 and ± 2 EV. Photos must be taken with the same aperture, otherwise the background will be different. And change the exposure by shutter speed. It is advisable to use a tripod, because the pictures will have to be combined in the editor and you need them to completely match.
If your camera has an HDR mode, then you need to hold it still and shoot the subject. The camera itself will take three frames and combine them, and as a result, you will receive a finished HDR photography... Today, smartphone cameras are often equipped with this function.
