V recent times a gadget called the Klick quick button has become popular, which, as the title of this article suggests, can be made by yourself. This is a physical button with which you can quickly turn on this or that software mobile phone or tablet. This button is plugged into the headphone jack and can be programmed for certain actions. For example, press the button once - your flashlight turns on, press twice - the calculator opens, and so on.
All this can be programmed in a mobile phone. This gadget is not so expensive in online stores. But the author of the video had an idea to create it with his own hands and he did it. And in this video tutorial, he will share his idea with the audience.
In order to make a homemade Klick quick button, we need a glue gun, a soldering iron, a heat shrink and a tact button. This button can be taken from some old unnecessary board. We also need a 3.5 mm minijack, a tester and a mobile phone.
The preparatory work needs to be undertaken first. The first step is to remove the button and then thoroughly clean the minijack. Since the clock button has four legs, we need to determine which ones are working. To do this, take a tester, switch to resistance, connect and press. Cut off two unnecessary legs.
The next step is assembly. As you can see, the minija has 4 outputs. Weight. Microphone out and left and right channels. The clock button must be soldered to ground at the microphone output. Cutting off unnecessary contacts, allocate space for the button.
To prevent parts of the minijack from remaining in the connector, apply a couple of drops of superglue between them. Click the quick loaf is ready. Now you can check it. To do this, we need to download the application. To do this, go to Play Market... In the search, write Click. Installing the program. We open. Insert the Click Button headphone jack.
Let's say we want to turn on the flashlight on the phone with one click. When pressed twice, the camera turns on. Three clicks - select the recorder. We exit the program. We block the phone.
A step-by-step guide to creating a Klick quick button
So, we need:
- glue gun;
- soldering iron;
- heat shrinkage;
- tact button;
- 3.5 mm mini-jack;
- tester;
- mobile phone.
After soldering the clock button from the board, we thoroughly clean the mini-jack.
Since the clock button has four legs, you need to determine which of them are working. To do this, take the tester, switch to resistance, connect the buttons to the two legs and press on it. If the tester shows a short circuit when pressed, then we have selected the correct pair.
We bite off the other two legs with pliers.
Let's move on to the assembly. The mini-jack has four outputs - ground, microphone output, and left and right channels. The clock button must be soldered to ground and the microphone output.
Since the upper channels are not needed, they can be bitten off with nippers in order to make room for the button.
To prevent individual parts of the mini-jack from accidentally remaining in the connector of the mobile phone, drip a couple of drops of superglue between them.
We solder the button to the mini-jack.
We carefully insulate the place of soldering with hot melt glue.
We put on heat shrink and fix.
Our Click Quick Button is ready. Note that for it to work, you need to download special application from the Play Market. To do this, just launch the Play Market and write the word click in the search bar. Below you can see a screenshot of the download page with the icon of the required application.
After installation, you need to launch the application, insert the button into the headphone jack and start programming. Downloaded from Play Market application allows you to program the start of certain programs with one, two or three presses of the button.
The check showed that the device works fine. This device may be needed in a situation where you need to quietly turn on, for example. At the right time, we put our hand in our pocket and press three times. At the same time, the dictaphone turns on, since it is programmed in this way.
Good luck with your DIY!
Hello! I present to you detailed review about a good flashlight Fenix RC20, which is perfect as an expensive gift for a person who is not familiar with flashlights and lithium batteries.
To avoid misunderstanding, I will give a decoding of some of the "lamp" terms that will be found in the article:
- Lantern head- the front part of the lamp, which is responsible for the distribution of light. Often there are control electronics (driver), emitter (LED), reflector and protective glasses;- Lantern body / tube- serves to connect all parts of the lantern into a single whole, as well as to accommodate power supplies;- Tail- serves as a kind of "cover" of the lantern. By unscrewing it, you can remove the batteries for replacement / charging. It usually contains a button, and sometimes a charging module;- LED / emitter / diode- LED (Light Emitting Diode), the main element of any flashlight that emits light. In most cases, there is a Cree LED - this is the undisputed leader in the market. It is followed by three less common companies: Nichia Chemical (Japan), OSRAM Licht AG (Germany) and Philips Lumileds (USA). Well, there is a whole army of completely "green" and not so companies, even several Russian firms. Xenon lamps can also be used as an emitter, but this is a completely different topic;- Hops / second hops- refers to Cree LEDs, in particular Cree XM-L(hops) and Cree XM-L2 (second hops);- Pill- a head element that receives heat from the LED and dissipates it to the body. It is usually screwed into the head of a lantern (old Convoy folk or some branded lanterns), or it is part of the head body (one-piece head), as in the new Convoy and most branded lanterns. Sometimes it is simply pressed into the head or pressed with a retaining ring, as in cheap shitfire. They are made either from copper alloy (bronze / brass) or from aluminum alloys. Pure men are used / grinded only by "flashlights";- Driver (current stabilizer)- used to supply LEDs with a fixed current. There are pulse and linear ones, the latter often have low efficiency, but many times cheaper than pulse ones. There are also 3 types: lowering, raising and lowering-raising (only in branded flashlights);- Carcass (Host)- in the usual sense, the head, body and tail are assembled, without electronics and LEDs. Designed mainly for self-assembly of a flashlight with individual elements... In relation to finished lamps, the term "carcass" refers only to the body, i.e. removing old elements, usually drivers, LEDs, buttons and optics and installing new ones;- Clip- serves to hold the flashlight on the visor of a baseball cap / hat, or in a pocket;- Button sealing elastic (Tailcap)- serves for moisture protection, usually made of silicone or soft rubber. Sometimes light-accumulative (glows in the dark);- O-ring / gasket (O-ring)- also designed for moisture protection, usually installed in front of glass, or in places of threaded connections. It also happens to be light-accumulative;- Knurling- designed to create a more aesthetic appearance of the flashlight, as well as to hold it more securely in the hand;- Thread- designed to connect parts of the lantern. With O-rings, a very strong tight connection is obtained;- Anodizing- metal coating with an oxide film of other metals / compounds - designed to protect against external influences, increasing the strength of the coating, as well as to protect against traces of luminescence (aluminum tends to get dirty);- On / off switch / button- to control the flashlight modes, there is a power button (designed for switching high currents) and a tactical button (for switching low currents). There are forward and backward clicks, i.e. inclusion before and after fixation. Available with a latch, or without a latch. Clock drivers are designed to work with impulse drivers, power ones with linear ones;- Bezel / crown- designed to protect the anodized layer of the head when you put the headlamp on your head, as well as for more convenient maintenance without disassembling the entire headlamp (in Convoy S2 / S2 + / S5 / S6 / S8, to access the LED or optics, you need to disassemble the entire head). Well, for aesthetic reasons, tk. some people prefer carcasses with shiny edging;- Glass / lens- to protect the interior of the lantern from dust / dirt / water. There are glass and plastic (PMMA, polycarbonate). The latter are very fragile, easily scratched and have a transmittance of about 90-93%. Ordinary glass ones transmit 99% of the light, are not scratched, and can also have an anti-reflective coating (in branded lamps);- Reflector / reflector- is responsible for the distribution of light. There are short-range, medium-range and long-range ones. The deeper the reflector, the longer it is (shines far away). On reflective surfaces, there are both smooth coated (SMO) and textured (OP). The latter have a less pronounced border of the hotspot transition to lateral illumination, as well as a slightly wider central spot, and there are no artifacts. Smooth reflectors usually have a kind of lateral illumination rings;- TIR lens / optics- used to change the beam of light. There are also both long-range and melee weapons. With the same dimensions, the angle can be different. The most common are from 15 to 120 degrees (the most popular are TIR 60 degrees). The latter, in turn, have a wide uniform illumination, which is simply necessary in headlamps;- Central spot / hotspot- concentrated / directional luminous flux, which has an increased brightness compared to side illumination. Usually it is pronounced in long-range lamps and looks like a central bright spot in the center, and on the sides there is a barely visible side flare with artifacts. Completely deprived of TIR hotspot lenses 45-120 degrees;- EDC flashlight (Everyday carry - to wear every day, translated from English)- compact lights, in the Convoy lineup this is the S series .;- Runtime- flashlight glow time- Stock / stock version- parameters set by the manufacturer. In the drain, there is usually always the cheapest, cyanotic bin U1 / U2 diode, but brighter.- Brightness stabilization- regardless of the battery charge level - the output is always, say, 450lm. In this case, as a rule, the driver is a lower-increase, i.e. while the battery is fresh, the driver works as a step-down driver. As soon as the battery is hooked, dryver begins to work as a boost. Flashlights on these drivers are quite expensive.- Stepdown- a sharp or gradual decrease in the output power of the LED according to a certain algorithm, i.e. in simple words decrease in output current per diode. There is a temporary stepdown (decrease in current after 3-5 minutes), multistepdown (decrease in output power, say, after 5 minutes from 950lm to 600lm, and after a couple of minutes at all, for example, to 450lm), thermal stepdown (decrease in current depending on heating the flashlight). I think these terms will be enough.
Fenix RC20 flashlight itself:
Brief performance characteristics:
- Manufacturer - Fenix
- Model number - RC20
- Main light source - LED Cree XM-L2 U2
- Color temperature - 6000-6500K (nice cool shade)
- Maximum luminous flux - 1000 lumens (in Turbo mode)
- Reflector - smooth aluminum / SMO
- Driver - pulse (brightness stabilization in each mode)
- Battery type - built-in 3.7V Li-Ion 18650 ARB-L1 2600mah (regular 18650 cells without "hands-on" are not supported!)
- Built-in charging - yes, docking station (docking station, adapter with USB output and cable included)
- Charge / discharge indication - coarse (LED)
- Lantern color - black
- Maximum range of a luminous flux - 290 meters
- Material - HA-III coated aviation aluminum (for military equipment)
- Waterproof - yes (IPx8 standard, protection against prolonged immersion in water to a depth of 2m)
- Modes - only 3 groups of 7 modes:
- - - main group - 4 modes (1000lm, 425lm, 150lm and 10lm)
- - - simplified group - 2 modes (1000lm and 150lm)
- - - special signal (hidden) - 1 mode (adaptive strobe)
- Memory of modes - yes (non-volatile)
- Management:
- On / off - power button in the tail of the flashlight
- Switching modes - tact button in the tail of the flashlight
- Dimensions - 161mm * 40mm
- Weight - 152g / 203g (without / with ARB-L1 2600mah battery)
- Warranty - 2 years
Distinctive features of the lantern:
- medium size of the flashlight (rather long flashlight)
- powerful luminous flux of 1000lm in turbo mode
- lack of neutral shades of LEDs in the line (only a pleasant cool shade)
- two control buttons in the tail of the flashlight - power (on / off) and clock (change of modes), which are great for one-handed operations
- highly efficient pulse driver with digital brightness stabilization (brightness stabilization in each mode)
- smooth, but rather fast change in the brightness of the glow (both up and down)
- rough indication of the battery discharge (depending on the discharge, the indicator color is different)
- automatic low battery warning (flashing red indicator)
- two groups of control modes to choose from (basic and simplified)
- non-volatile memory of modes
- instant on / off function and quick access to strobe
- thermo-stepdown in TURBO mode (smooth current decrease when the lamp temperature reaches 65 ° C)
- the ability to charge the battery without disassembling the flashlight (included is a charger with a built-in charging module)
- high-quality 5V / 1.5A power adapter / PSU with USB output
- lack of support for conventional lithium batteries 18650, i.e. to increase the operating time, you need to buy a more capacious "branded" battery, for example, Fenix ARB-L2 3400mah, or customize
- non-separable design of the head and tail (threaded connections are most likely glued)
- rather massive head with pronounced cooling ribs
- tempered mineral glass with a special anti-reflective coating
- waterproof in accordance with the IPx8 standard (long-term immersion in water to a depth of 2 meters), as well as the declared shock resistance of 1m
- reliable design (can be used as an underbarrel flashlight)
- availability of additional accessories
Contents of delivery:
The lantern is delivered in a black plastic case. Medium-sized case (26cm * 20cm * 6cm), stickers with basic specifications are present (type of LED, main features of the flashlight, batteries, typical applications of the flashlight and lighting times in various modes):
Inside the box there is a polypropylene box - a kind of protection during transportation, it contains everything you need:
On my own behalf, I will add that the case is of good quality, does not bend, most likely, it will be used for other purposes as a box for various parts or will be transferred to the car for additional accessories. The case lock is convenient, though a little sickly:
The complete set is as follows:
- Fenix RC20 flashlight
- Li-ion battery Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah
- charger (docking station with a meter-long charging cable and power adapter / power supply for 5V / 1.5A with USB output)
- 1 spare o-ring
- case
- lanyard
- instruction in 6 languages, including Russian
- warranty card
The instruction is small, there is nothing superfluous in it, it is short and clear, everything is on the case:
So, let's go directly to the lantern:
Lantern dimensions:
The manufacturer claims 161mm * 40mm, everything converges:
Comparison with the previously reviewed Nitecore P12 and Convoy BD03 flashlights:
What can I say, the lantern turned out to be too long, I would like a little more compact. Comparison with a typical Li-Ion 18650 battery:
Flashlight weight without battery / with battery Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah only 152g / 203g:
Protection against external influences:
Briefly about IP standards (takenfrom here)
The declared waterproofing IPx8, which means that the flashlight can easily be immersed in water to a depth of 2m (more than a meter) for a long time:
Water test (lantern at the bottom of a small bucket):
Light source:
The lamp has a Cree XM-L2 U2 LED (nice cool shade), which produces 1000 lumens. Center mounted LED, no distortion, no dust or prints:
The glass / lens in the flashlight is tempered mineral, a slight purple tint of the anti-reflective coating is visible at an angle:
The flashlight is medium-long-range, the illumination angle is approximately 100 °, but thanks to a rather deep reflector there is a clearly defined hotspot (bright spot), it hits well into the distance:
Control and operating modes:
Fenix RC20 has 7 modes in total - 4 modes in the main group (turbo - 1000lm, maximum 425lm, medium - 150lm and minimum - 10lm), 2 modes in the simplified group (turbo - 1000lm and medium - 150lm) and 1 hidden mode (adaptive strobe ). The modes are selected quite competently, switching from weak to strong mode. When replacing the battery or breaking the supply circuit (unscrewing the tail), the memory last regime not reset (non-volatile). In other models, in such cases, the flashlight usually starts from the default mode.
A very interesting feature of the flashlight is a simplified group consisting of only two modes, which is very convenient:
Mode-> brightness-> glow time with Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah battery:
The main group of modes - 4 main glow modes:
- Maximum (425 lumens) - 2h 55 min (175 min)
- Low (10 lumens) - 120h
Simplified group of modes - 2 main glow modes:
- Turbo (1000 lumens) - 1h 10 min (70 min), total time including thermal control
- Medium (150 lumens) - 9h 50 min (590 min)
Hidden mode group - 1 special signal available from both the main and the simplified group, as well as from the off position:
- adaptive strobe (alternating "fast" and "slow" strobe)
In turbo mode, there is a smooth thermal stepdown, i.e. reduction of the output current in order to protect the LED from overheating when the lamp temperature reaches 65 ° C.
Thanks to the intuitive control interface and the location of both buttons in the tail, the flashlight is easily operated with one hand:
The controls in the flashlight are very simple. The power button (round) turns on / off the flashlight in the previously used mode (non-volatile memory of modes), and the clock button switches the modes, from the lowest to the highest. A light press on the power button instantly turns on the flashlight in the last used mode. In this case, as soon as it is released, it will turn off. The strobe is hidden, accessible from any state of the lamp (quick access). To activate, you need to hold down the tact button for half a second. When the lamp is on, the strobe will work constantly, when it is off - while the button is pressed. To switch to the simplified mode and back, you need to hold down the tact button for 3 seconds. First, the strobe is activated (after 0.5 seconds), and after 3 seconds have elapsed, the flashlight blinks 2 times and then lights up constantly, indicating that a transition to another control mode has been made.
Another interesting feature of the flashlight is a smooth, but rather fast change in brightness when switching brightness modes, both up and down, which creates the impression of "lethargy". Unusual at first, but helps out in the dark.
The head has a coarse multi-color indicator of the charge of the inserted battery and, depending on the discharge of the latter, with a short press of the tactical semicircular button, it can light / flash green / red. At the same time, if the battery charge is critical, the indicator turns on automatically and starts blinking red:
These are the indicators:
- low battery level - the indicator is red
Nutrition:
The flashlight is powered by proprietary 3.7V Li-Ion Fenix batteries, which differ from the usual in large dimensions (72.5mm * 20mm, that is, roughly f / f "20720") and duplicated output contacts (plus and minus are removed from both sides of the can). Ordinary 18650 batteries will not work without a little bit of finishing. the diameter of the battery compartment is 20.8mm and there is a high probability of shorting the bank. The flashlight comes with a proprietary 3.7V Li-Ion battery Fenix ARB-L1 with a capacity of 2600mah:
Battery dimensions 20mm * 72.5mm:
The flashlight lacks any mechanical protection against polarity reversal, because the output contacts of the proprietary battery are duplicated (plus in the center, minus - ring, from the edge):
Inside the battery, most likely, there is a typical Samsung / Sanyo 2600mah with a protection board, just the contacts are brought out on both sides. If everything goes well, I will try to disassemble the battery cartridge and remake it for ordinary cans. And so the design of the contacts is quite simple:
It was naive to believe that there would be voltage on the charging contacts, otherwise it was possible to easily short-circuit the inserted battery, for example, in the rain, but I still checked:
No voltage is supplied, most likely, a diode is standing in the way, passing current in only one direction, i.e. from charging. To whom the capacity of the 2600mah battery will seem small, the line includes a more capacious model Fenix ARB-L1 with a capacity of 3400mah.
Stable brightness is declared in each mode, i.e. as the battery is discharged, the luminous flux does not change. Most likely, a buck-boost pulse driver is installed here. Judging by eye, up to a voltage of 3.3V, the driver "pulls" all modes, with the exception of TURBO, below only medium and low are available, maximum and turbo are inactive. But at a very low voltage (about 2.8V), the medium mode is reset to the minimum. There is stabilization by eye, but since there are no instruments (light meter, for example), I cannot check. And you can't measure the current from the bottom, so let's take the manufacturer's word for it.
Complete charger:
The charger consists of a docking station where the flashlight itself is inserted, an adapter / power supply for 5V / 1.5A with a USB connector and a cable:
The manufacturer took care of the ease of use of the flashlight - you do not need to twist, take out, observe the polarity, etc. to charge it. You just need to plug the flashlight into the docking station and go about your business (the docking station has foolproof protection). In the process of charging, the red indicator is on. As soon as the battery is fully charged, the green indicator will light up, you can remove the flashlight. Everything is trite and simple:
The flashlight is charged with a current of 0.9-1A (CC / CV algorithm, the current decreases towards the end of the charge), which in principle is normal, although for me it is not enough (I'm already used to driving all my 2A cans with current):
For more information about the charger, see under the spoiler (opening and tests):
The docking station is a plastic box with spring-loaded latches and output contacts:
As you can see from the photo - the protrusions are uneven, the flashlight comes in only in one position. The docking station has two through holes and moderately tight latches, so it can be mounted vertically on the wall without the flashlight falling out. The docking station with the cable form a single whole, the cable length is about 1m:
The direct charging module itself is built into the docking station (not into the flashlight, as, for example, in the Convoy BD03):
The adapter is of high quality, it holds the declared 1.5A (limitation) without problems, it can be used for other purposes for charging smartphones / tablets:
Testing the adapter 1A / 2A with a load (it does not give more than 1.5A, there is a limitation):
At idle, the green indicator is on, the voltage on the contacts is 4.2V:
Additional accessories:
A lot of additional accessories are sold to the lantern - diffusers, light filters, remote buttons, various mounts:
The set includes only basic pribluda: a lanyard and a cover. The lanyard is the simplest, without a latch:
Together with the cover: 
Partial disassembly:
Thanks to the policy of the Fenix company, it is not possible to disassemble the flashlight while maintaining the appearance and declared characteristics, because most threaded connections are tightly glued. Therefore, the flashlight is disassembled into only two parts: the body (head and tube) and the tail:
Head with pronounced cooling ribs:
For better heat transfer, rather deep cooling fins are carved on the head. Together with the massive head, the heat sink is good.
If necessary, disassembly - the head is pulled off in the place where the inscription Fenix RC20. Also, in my opinion, a kind of wide bezel should be unscrewed, but it is also glued or stuck from the inside of the head, I could not unscrew it with my hands (where the inscription “HOT”). The current lead in the head is the same as in the tail:
The tube has a rectangular knurl for better grip:
The thread is trapezoidal, the width is large, about 5 turns, there will be no leaks even without O-rings, :-). The thread is anodized and not lubricated at all, there is some creak when tightening / unscrewing:
On the other hand, there is no need to lubricate the threads, because the batteries are specific here, they cannot be charged in a third-party charger, but a complete charger with a charge current of 0.9-1A should be enough for many. Therefore, there is no special need to disassemble it.
Anodized thread is a very big plus, because there is no need to be afraid of spontaneous switching on of the flashlight in your bag / pocket. It is enough just to slightly unscrew the lid and the flashlight will not turn on spontaneously.
Lantern tail: 
As you can see, there are two buttons: power (round) and clock (semicircular). The power button is a direct click (turn on until you click), thanks to which there is the possibility of instant on / off, which is useful, for example, at sea (give commands with a combination of flashes). With some skill, you can implement your own stroboscope :-). Unfortunately, the power button does not completely break the circuit, because when the power button is off, a strobe is available by pressing the clock. As I understand it, there is still a current in rest mode (power supply of the MK).
There is only one lanyard lanyard protrusion, making it easier to operate one thumb, but the lantern has lost the ability to set on the tail ("candle" mode):
Although the manufacturer does not declare about highly efficient gold-plated down conductors (springs and contacts), they are the same as in the Nitecore HC50 forehead. I believe that in the Fenix RC20 they also have minimal resistance and do not oxidize over time.
My "artisanal" beamshots:
Since I do not have a normal camera, and in photography I am a complete layman, I will shoot as usual - on the camera of the SGS3 smartphone. On the left is the stock Nitecore P12 XM-L2 T6 3B, on the right, overlooked by the Fenix RC20 XM-L2 U2, 1.5 meters to the wall.
Minimum mode vs minimum mode:
Beamshots in a large unlit box / hangar:
Will be a little later
Comparison on the ground (forest road), TURBO mode:
In total, let's summarize the main features of the flashlight:
General management information:
- A light press on the power button - instantly turn on the flashlight in the previously used mode (as soon as it is released, it will turn off)
- Full pressing of the power button until it clicks - turning on / off the flashlight in the previously used mode
- Short press on the tact button - switching modes from lowest to highest
- Holding the tact button for 0.5 seconds with the flashlight on or off - activating the hidden adaptive strobe (from the off state, the strobe is active only while the tact button is pressed)
- Holding the tact button for 3 seconds - changing the main or simplified group
Rough battery indication:
When the flashlight is off and the mode switch button is pressed once (semicircular button), depending on the battery voltage, the multi-color indicator built into the head (between the charging contacts) lights up / blinks green / red for 3 seconds:
- sufficient battery charge - the indicator lights up green
- low battery level - the indicator is green
- critical battery level - the indicator flashes red constantly (turns on automatically)
Wishes to developers:
- add the ability to disassemble the flashlight so that you can "customize", ie disassembled and assembled without problems (most likely, it is excluded, since it contradicts the policy of the Fenix company)
- add support for third-party Li-Ion batteries
- add to the line lights with a neutral shade of LED, or with a warm shade
- implement voltage indication when the lamp is running (under load)
- to modify the rough indication: to make three indicator LEDs or one multi-color, or color coding of voltage. In its current form, the charge indication is of no practical interest (while the first place in the indication is confidently held by Nitecore with their patented charge display technology with an accuracy of 0.1V)
As an example (3 diodes, two colors, 6 steps, 0.2V step, starting from 2.8-3V):
Pros:
+ brand, quality assurance
+ high output power of 1000lm
+ additional cooling fins (at home, thermal control is triggered quite rarely, on the street most likely never)
+ durable anodizing of all parts of the lantern
+ universal light beam (medium-long range)
+ well-thought-out modes, as well as the presence of a simplified group of two modes (TURBO and medium)
+ simple and convenient one-handed control from the butt (most are more comfortable this way)
+ instant on function, i.e. power button direct click (it is possible to transmit conditional signals, for example, sea)
+ smooth increase / decrease in brightness and quick access to the strobe
+ non-volatile memory of modes
+ high efficiency pulse driver (digital brightness stabilization)
+ thermal stepdown, which reduces output power when the temperature reaches 65 ° С (the massive head warms up for a long time, the stepdown will not interfere)
+ coarse indication of battery discharge
+ the presence of a "built-in" charger by 1.5A, i.e. no need to disassemble the flashlight (approximate charging time of the battery 2.6 Ah is about 3 hours)
+ excellent adapter / PSU for 5V 1.5A (suitable for smartphones / tablets)
+ excellent ready-made expensive gift (gift case and built-in battery included)
+ high quality plastic case (perfect for your needs)
+ high class moisture protection IPx8 (up to 2m)
+ availability of additional accessories
± both control buttons (power / clock) are located in the tail (given the dimensions of the flashlight, I personally would like to see the clock button on the side of the head, but then the ability to operate with one hand is lost)
± lack of lubrication on threaded connections (there is no need to unscrew the bottom especially)
Minuses:
- non-separable design, i.e. the impossibility of replacing the LED or fixing the electronics (although you can get there if you want)
- lack of options with a neutral shade of LED (coupled with the impossibility of disassembling generally tryndets)
- third-party batteries are not supported (the problem can be solved)
- the power button does not completely cut off the power, because the clock activates the strobe (I can not check, because it is almost non-separable design)
- the charge current is only 0.9-1A (for me personally, an indecently low current)
- can not be put on the tail ("candle" mode)
- price
Output:not a bad flashlight overall, but too many limitations. I immediately remembered the comparison of smartphones running Android and iOS (Apple). This lantern is somewhat reminiscent of an apple device: the design is good, and the workmanship, and the filling, and ease of use, but you cannot customize it for yourself and the price is huge. There is no longer "dig deeper" in the filling, as they say, and it only supports everything that is native. Therefore, in my opinion, massive this model will not be, but for those who are alien to various body movements and the search for batteries and chargers - this flashlight will be to their taste ...
Many have a variety of Chinese flashlights, all powered by a single battery. Like this:
Unfortunately, they are very short-lived. How to bring the flashlight back to life and some simple improvements that can improve such flashlights - I will tell you later.
The weakest point of such lights is the button. Its contacts are oxidized, as a result of which the flashlight begins to shine dimly, and then it may stop turning on altogether.
The first sign is that the flashlight with a normal battery shines weakly, but if you click the button several times, the brightness increases.
The easiest way to make such a lantern shine is to do the following: 
1. Take a thin stranded wire, cut off one vein.
2. We wind the wiring on the spring.
3. Bend the wire so that the battery does not break it. The wire should protrude slightly
over the swirling part of the flashlight.
4. Tighten tightly. Break off the excess wire (tear off).
As a result, the wire provides good contact with the negative part of the battery and the flashlight.
will shine with due brightness. Of course, the button with such a repair is not a lot, so
turn on - turn off the flashlight by turning the head part.
My Chinese man worked like this for a couple of months. If you need to change the battery, back part lantern
should not be touched. We turn our head away.
RESTORING THE PERFORMANCE OF THE BUTTON.
Today I decided to bring the button back to life. The button is in a plastic case, which
simply pressed into the back of the lantern. In principle, it can be pushed back, but I did it a little differently: 
1. Make a pair of holes with a 2 mm drill bit to a depth of 2-3 mm.
2. Now you can unscrew the housing with the button with tweezers.
3. We extract the button.
4. The button is assembled without glue and latches, so it is easy to disassemble with a stationery knife.
The photo shows that the movable contact has oxidized (round bullshit in the center, like a button).
You can clean it with an eraser or fine sandpaper and assemble the button back, but I decided to additionally irradiate this part and the fixed contacts. 
1. We clean with fine sandpaper.
2. We serve with a thin layer the places marked in red. We wipe the flux with alcohol,
collecting the button.
3. To increase reliability, I soldered a spring to the bottom contact of the button.
4. Putting everything back.
After renovation, the button works fine. Of course, tin also oxidizes, but since tin is a fairly soft metal, I hope that the oxide film will be
easy to break down. It is not for nothing that the central contact on the bulbs is made of tin.
IMPROVING FOCUSING.
What is a "hotspot", my Chinese had a very vague idea, so I decided to enlighten him.
We unscrew the head part. 
1. The board has a small hole (arrow). With the help of an awl, we unscrew the filling,
at the same time, lightly press your finger on the glass from the outside. This makes it easier to get out.
2. Remove the reflector.
3. Take ordinary office paper, punch 6-8 holes with an office punch.
The hole diameter of the hole punch perfectly matches the diameter of the LED.
Cut out 6-8 paper washers.
4. Place the washers on the LED and press down with the reflector.
Here you have to experiment with the number of pucks. In this way, I improved focusing with a pair of flashlights, the number of washers was in the range of 4-6. It took 6 of them on the current patient.
What happened in the end: 
On the left is our Chinese, on the right is Fenix LD 10 (at the minimum).
The result is quite pleasant. The hot spot has become pronounced and even.
INCREASE BRIGHTNESS (for those who know a little about electronics).
The Chinese save on everything. A couple of unnecessary details - an increase in the cost price, so they do not put it. 
The main part of the diagram (marked in green) can be different. On one or two transistors or on a specialized microcircuit (I have a circuit of two parts:
choke and microcircuit with 3 legs, similar to a transistor). But on the part marked in red - they save. I added a capacitor and a pair of 1n4148 diodes in parallel (I didn't find a Schottky). The brightness of the LED has increased by 10-15 percent.
1. This is how the LED looks like in similar Chinese. From the side you can see that there are thick and thin legs inside. A thin leg is a plus. You need to navigate by this sign, because the colors of the wires can be completely unpredictable.
2. This is how the board looks like, to which the LED is soldered (on the back side). Foil is marked in green. The wires from the driver are soldered to the LED legs.
3. Cut the foil on the plus side of the LED with a sharp knife or a triangular file.
We sand the entire board to remove the varnish.
4. Solder diodes and capacitor. I took the diodes from a broken computer power supply, the tantalum capacitor dropped out of some burned-out hard drive.
The positive wire now needs to be soldered to the pad with diodes.
As a result, the flashlight gives out (by eye) 10-12 lumens (see photos with hotspots),
judging by the phoenix, which produces 9 lumens in the minimum mode.
And the last: the advantage of the Chinese over the branded flashlight (yes, don't laugh)
Branded lights are designed to be rechargeable, therefore
with a battery discharged to 1 volt, my Fenix LD 10 simply does not turn on. At all.
I took a dead alkaline battery computer mouse... The multimeter showed that she sat down to 1.12v. The mouse on it no longer worked, Fenix, as I said, did not start. But the Chinese man works! 
Left - Chinese, right - Fenix LD 10 at minimum (9 lumens). Unfortunately, the white balance is out of order.
The phoenix has a temperature of 4200K. The Chinese man is blue, but not as bad as in the photo.
For fun, I tried to finish off the battery. At this brightness level (5-6 lumens per eye), the flashlight worked for about 3 hours. The brightness is quite enough to illuminate under your feet in a dark entrance / forest / basement. Then for another 2 hours the brightness decreased to the level of the "firefly". Agree, 3-4 hours with acceptable light can solve a lot.
For this, let me take my leave.
Stari4ok.
ZY The article is not copy-paste. Made in ya, specially for NEPROPADU!
By default in non-server windows versions only one remote desktop connection can be made, and the work of the current user is necessarily blocked.
We correct this misunderstanding.
Be sure to keep the original file termsrv.dll.
Let's run command line from the Administrator and execute
copy c: \ Windows \ System32 \ termsrv.dll termsrv.dll_old
Then we look at your version. Right click on the file c: \ Windows \ System32 \ termsrv.dll and select properties.
Download the modified file corresponding to your version
If you want to fix everything with your own hands, then copy your termsrv.dll file from the folder c: \ Windows \ System32 \ on the desktop. Open it with any hex editor, for example this free HxD. And replace the bytes in the specified line.
In the first column, the value that should be in the second is original.
Windows 7 SP1 64bit:
173C0: B8 8BFor Windows 8.1 (64bit), replace the entire line !
173C1: 00 87
173C2: 01 38
173C3: 00 06
173C5: 90 00
173C6: 89 39
173C8: 38 3C
173CC: 90 0F
173CD: 90 84
173CE: 90 EB
173CF: 90 C2
173D0: 90 00
173D1: 90 00
176FA: 00 01
5AD7E: EB 74
in v6.3.9600.16384
line
8B 81 38 06 00 00 39 81 3C 06 00 00 0F 84 1B 70 00 00
on
B8 00 01 00 00 89 81 38 06 00 00 90 90 90 90 90 90 90
at 6.3.9600.16384 to 6.3.9600.17095
line
39 81 3C 06 00 00 0F 84 9E 31 05 00
on
6.3.9600.17095 to 6.3.9600.17415
lineLet's use the replacement tool with the type hexadecimal values
39 81 3C 06 00 00 0F 84 D3 1E 02 00
on
B8 00 01 00 00 89 81 38 06 00 00 90
Save changes after replacement.
If you are experiencing difficulties with access rights, then open the properties, the security tab, the additional button. And you change the owner for yourself. Apply. After that you will be able to change permissions for groups and users.
Next stop the Remote Desktop Service
Replace the file termsrv.dll on downloaded or modified.
You also need to change the key value in the registry HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE \ SYSTEM \ CurrentControlSet \ Control \ Terminal Server \ fSingleSessionPerUser to 0!
Let's start the service again!
Connect and rejoice! Now the local user is not kicked out of the system!
For Windows XP
1) Editing the file
termsrv.dll (SP2 5.1.2600.2180) 295,424 bytes
128BB: 75 -> 74termsrv.dll (SP3 5.1.2600.5512) 295,424 bytes
217D3: 8B -> 33
217D4: C7 -> C0
2192D: 8B -> 33
2192E: C7 -> C0
225B7: 54 -> 20
22A17: 74 -> 752) Replace the file in the directory C: \ Windows \ System32 \ need in safe mode because the default is protection system files (System File Protection). To do this, restart the computer with the F8, select safe mode.
22A69: 7F -> 90
22A6A: 16 -> 90
3) Add registry keys
“EnableConcurrentSessions”= Dword: 00000001
“EnableConcurrentSessions”= Dword: 00000001
“AllowMultipleTSSessions”= Dword: 00000001
4) Next Start -> Run, gpedit.msc. In the editor window group policy Computer Configuration -> Administrative Templates -> Windows components-> Terminal Service. Enable Limit the number of connections and set the number of connections to 3 or more.
5) Reboot and connect!
Today we will talk about a rather controversial accessory, namely physical button which can be plugged into the headphone jack and assigned various actions. How convenient and necessary it is, let's try to understand the review.
A bit of background
This great idea originally appeared on kickstarter - Pressy (link). The project was quite ambitious and quickly raised the amount required for commercial implementation (about 700 thousand dollars). At first, the idea went off, and the excitement was great - the accessory was mentioned in almost all major technical publications. After all, the idea is really good - a miniature button that can be connected to the headphone jack of a smartphone (Android / iOS) and programmed for various actions, for example: one press turns on the flashlight, two presses take a picture with the camera, one short - one long press starts some or an application - there can be a huge variety of combinations.
But despite the great idea and good implementation, the excitement quickly died down, since for a very simple device (a headphone jack, inside which there is a resistor and a clock button on top), the creators ask about $ 30. And this, in my opinion, is a lot for such a simple device.
And then, as usually happens, the Chinese manufacturers picked up the idea and made many "Klick quick buttons" under different names (Klick, MiKey and others), but completely identical from the technical point of view. The price, of course, has dropped significantly - and fluctuates depending on the quality of work from 5 to 15 dollars, which corresponds to this simple device. Next, we will focus on just one of the Chinese buttons.
Meet - Klick
In a huge number of different Chinese click quick buttons, as it seemed to me the quality of execution (both the button itself and the application for setting it up), one stands out under the unpretentious name "Klick" (the manufacturer even has a website - a link).
When the button arrived from China, the quality did not disappoint me: both the button itself and the packaging are all very presentable.
Upon arrival, the box was not crumpled, but became such for me in anticipation of a review.
Klick - packaging
When opened, the box unfolds, and on its inner side we see a brief instruction for use.
Klick - equipment
Case for Klick
In addition to the button itself, the package includes a keychain ring and a small case that can be attached to the protein ring or to the headphone wire.
Android apps for working with a button
If you just connect the button to your smartphone, then it will be defined simply as headphones. Therefore, before doing this, it is worth installing the applications. There are several options for Android.
Press It! Power Button Psre sy
This application can be downloaded at Google play(link)from the creators of Psresy.The free version has enough poor functionality; there is interesting function a fake call (when the button is pressed, the smartphone starts ringing as if it received a call). It works somehow incomprehensibly - it reacts to pressing, then it does not, and why is not clear. I do not recommend using this against the background of other applications.
Pros of the app:
- spoof call function.
- unstable work of the application;
- it is impossible to customize which scenarios work when the screen is locked and which do not.
Miclick (MiKey)
The app is from Xiaomi, it is not on Google Play (it is preinstalled on smartphones Xiaomi), you can download it from w3bsit3-dns.com, there is a translated version (link) - thanks to user malchik-solnce.
The application works stably and accurately - as it should. 10 events can be programmed (from one to 10 presses in a row). There are quite convenient scenarios (in addition to the standard ones): for example, you can clear the memory of running applications, lock the screen, turn off the sound, take a screenshot.
- stable work;
- many convenient scenarios (clearing memory, screenshot, etc.);
- quick response to pressing a button.
- the application does not distinguish between long / short presses;
- it is impossible to configure which scenarios work when the screen is locked and which do not;
- not on google play.
Klick
This application is from the manufacturer of the "Klick" button, you can download it from Google Play (link). The application distinguishes between long and short presses, this is very convenient - this significantly reduces the number of button clicks required to execute a script (for example, 4 quick presses are not very convenient, one short, one long is much more convenient). It works very stably, but, unfortunately, it has few "special" scripts (like cleaning up memory and the like), there are enough interesting opportunity take a picture with the camera by pressing a button without launching the camera application (even if the screen is locked), but in fact, nothing good comes out of such pictures, you still need to see what gets into the lens (strictly speaking, this function is also available in other applications , but it worked correctly for me only with this).
For each of the scenarios, you can choose whether it will work when the screen is locked - this is convenient, since if you carry your smartphone in your pocket, you cannot escape from random single clicks.
- stable work;
- the application features long / short clicks;
- it is possible to customize which scripts work when the screen is locked and which do not.
- few special scenarios.
- there is a slight delay from pressing the button to the execution of the script (~ 1.5 sec).
___________________________________________________________________________
To summarize, I can say that I liked the last application the most. The delay when pressing, of course, spoils the impression a little, but without the ability to choose which scenarios work when the screen is locked and which ones do not, it is not very convenient to use the button (it will still be accidentally pressed), well, and the ability to customize combinations of long / short clicks - this is also very convenient.
Klick Button Operation
We sort of figured out the application, now is the time to plug the button into the headphone jack of the smartphone.
The button fits into the connector very tightly and holds there tightly - you won't be able to accidentally lose it. Of course, it sticks out a little from the body, without this there is no way, but strongly appearance it does not spoil the smartphone and does not interfere with use.
It is worth understanding one obvious thing: when the button is connected, you cannot connect headphones / headset to the smartphone. If you are accustomed to frequently using the headphone jack for its intended purpose, then it is not convenient to poke the button with the headphones. For me, this was a very urgent problem, since I was used to using a smartphone as a player. But it so happened that now I use two smartphones, so I transferred all the music to one, and I use the second with Klick. If there was only one smartphone, then, I think, from the additional button, I would most likely refused and used the connector for its intended purpose.
Despite the fact that a fairly large number of scenarios can be configured for a button (on average, more than five), in reality it is not convenient to use more than three or four - if you need to press the button more than three or four times to start, then it is easier to just start desired application traditional ways and do not count a bunch of clicks.
When choosing applications for quick launch Through the button, I was guided by two principles: applications that are used more often than others, and applications that may need to be launched as quickly as possible (for example, a camera). Also, when setting it up, it should be borne in mind that an application configured to launch with one click will inevitably be triggered by accident (the button will be pressed in the pocket or somehow), so it makes sense to configure so that one click only works when the screen is unlocked.
Of course, in order to get used to a new button on a smartphone, choose applications that are really convenient to assign to it, remember to the level of automatism how many times you need to press for this or that scenario to work, it takes time. But after walking for a month, you already involuntarily begin to look for Klick on all smartphones that fall into your hands.
A few words at the end
Despite the brilliant idea, such a button will not be convenient for every smartphone user. Therefore, if you are thinking about purchasing, you should think about whether it will be convenient to occupy the headphone jack, and what scenarios will be executed when pressed.
I have been using Klick for a long enough period of time to get used to it and understand that the accessory is really convenient, and for the sake of it you can put up with the fact that on one smartphone the headphone jack will be constantly busy.
