Hello everyone. I'll start right away with the case, I have a wireless computer mouse and recent times It hurt too much to eat the batteries. The current consumption of 15 mA is written on the mouse itself, measured - indeed 15 mA. But even with a 1900 mAh Ni-Mn battery, it lasted just over a week. At first nothing, then again I did not understand anything ... It began to strain me seriously, not because I felt sorry for the money for batteries, but because I broke every time to change them. I decided to put the battery from the phone, the capacity is larger, and the voltage is higher, in any case, it will be enough for a longer time, but it was not there, the mouse flatly refused to work with the battery. I already thought that I burned it, but when I set it battery-mouse came to life ... Having rummaged through the Internet, I did not find any acceptable solution to this problem with a very eating mouse. I decided to solve the problem myself, it's useless to change the batteries every 2-3 days.
I started looking for an alternative to batteries. There were not many options - to make a rug with induction current transmission, then the mouse would be powered by the rug, but then extra wires appeared and the mouse became not quite wireless or put a more capacious battery. I decided to use a battery. And a 3.7V Li-Po battery from an MP3 player has been hanging on the table for a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, I don’t know the capacity (I found this battery from which MP3 - the operating time is 8 hours), it was ideally sized and held a charge well. Taking into account the previous experience of connecting 3.7 V to a mouse, I began to think how to make a stabilizer for 1 - 1.5 V.
Here the almighty Internet helped and gave me a stabilizer circuit for. Good enough option for me. Compact and just capable of stabilizing the voltage at 1.2 V. Fortunately, there was one LM available, it was immediately found and tested for serviceability. Indeed, it stabilized the voltage at 1.23 V. Perfect.
However, there is one "BUT", no matter how good the stabilizer is, it will still take on the current, even if no load is connected to it. And in my case, every extra μA will negatively affect the duration of the mouse. I began to think about how to make this stabilizer turn off automatically when the mouse is not used. Then I remembered that somewhere on our site there was an article about automatic shutdown multimeter. , the scheme turned out to be as simple as two fingers. A symbiosis of the two schemes was immediately created.
Scheme
I used KP501 as a transistor, if you are going to power the mouse from 3.7 volts and below, then you need to look in the datasheet for the opening voltage of the field operator: any WILL NOT GO. If the opening voltage is below 3.7 V, then the field-effect transistor will either not open at all, or it will open slightly and there will be large losses at the under-opened junction of the transistor. I began to raise the board, the main criterion was compactness, and only then beauty and aesthetics. Diluted means a fee, bleed, drilled and began to collect.
The only thing, I want to say, in order not to kill the transistor when soldering, it is advisable to wrap all its legs with wire (without varnish, electrically conductive). There is a sad experience when the gate of a field worker was killed by statics (if the gate is heavy enough, a few nF can be dispensed with without tying the legs).
Regarding the operating time - the greater the capacitance of the capacitor at the gate-source and the greater the resistance of the resistor parallel to the capacitor, the longer our stabilizer and mouse will be on. I got exactly 1 minute in time. For interest, I checked it several times with a stopwatch - exactly 1 minute)) In my opinion, even the simplest countdown timer can be made this way.
So the board is ready to be integrated into the mouse. I didn't even try to solder, everything is on hastily, as they say, the main thing is to work.
We disassemble the mouse.
Now we need to add our own button to launch the stabilizer and therefore the mouse itself. I could not think of anything better how to glue impromptu copper plates as button contacts. Wires were soldered to them and passed through the holes.
The plastic pressing the buttons on the board returned to its rightful place. I checked with a multimeter if there was a contact when pressed and began to collect further. I soldered the autooff board with the stabilizer, fixed it with glue and covered it with electrical tape (you must glue it with blue tape, otherwise it will not work!).
I placed the battery inside, brought out more wiring for charging (I hope they will not be needed soon) and put the mouse back together, since there was more space in my mouse than I expected, and everything fit easily. I didn't even have to change the design of the mouse itself. To launch the mouse, you need to click on the left or right button. The mouse will start for exactly a minute, if you do not click a single button for a minute, it turns off.
In the end, it turned out pretty good, if the battery is completely dead, and there is nowhere to charge (there is no time), then you can always insert a regular battery and continue working, this small device will not conflict with the battery.
I measured the current consumption from the battery - 18 mA, in my opinion it's not very bad, 2 μA turns out to be taken over by the stabilizer. The current when the "timer is out" is zero, it made me happy. I hope now the mouse will last for a long time.
During this writing, the mouse behaved stably, without glitches. Perhaps someday I'll make another induction mat / stand to leave the mouse there for charging. Especially for the site Radio circuits - Denis.
Discuss the article BATTERY INSTALLATION IN A WIRELESS MOUSE
Hello, friends. Today we'll talk about another mouse from China.
As they say, there are never too many mice, so when a familiar Chinese woman offered a mouse for a review, I agreed. Moreover, I have not yet had a wireless rechargeable mouse). So, we sent for a review a mouse from T-Wolf, model Q13.
The mouse came in an ordinary gray bag, but thanks to the seller, the box with the mouse itself was still in an extra bubble and nothing was damaged.
Despite the inexpensive price, the mouse has a beautiful box with color printing, you can give it, if that. On the top of the box is a photo of the mouse, brand name and model.
All are written on the front side face specifications mice.
On the bottom of the box is an image of two possible options colors and brief characteristics.
There is nothing interesting on the other edges.
The product page states the following specifications:
Product type: optical mouse model Q13
Resolution: 2400/1600/1200/800 DPI
Number of buttons: 6
PC connection type: 2.4GHz wireless
Maximum distance: 10 m
Charging cable length: 50cm
Color: black, white
Material: ABS
Power: Built-in 600mAh lithium battery
Button time to failure: 10 million clicks
Rated voltage / current: DC 3.7V / 18mA
Compatibility: Windows XP / Win 7 / Win8 /
Product weight: 149g.
Overall dimensions: 13 * 8 * 3.8 cm.
What we have in the kit. This is actually the mouse itself, a charging cable, and a piece of paper with instructions.
So, the mouse has a symmetrical futuristic design, but, nevertheless, it fits comfortably in the middle and children's hand. I checked it on myself and then my son played for 12 years. The body is made of soft-touch coating, except for the side supports, which are made of plastic with a metal coating. Over time, of course, it will peel off, but so far it's normal.
On the back of the mouse there is a logo, which, like the sides of the mouse, is highlighted in the process. The backlight cannot be switched off, the colors just change, it is not very bright, it does not hit the eyes.
Unlike my other mice, here it does not signal a DPI change, but has a purely decorative function.
Speaking of the buttons, there are 6 of them. Two main buttons, very quiet, which is good, 2 buttons on the left side of the mouse, they are louder, a button under the scroll wheel and a button for changing DPI modes. The scroll wheel is covered with rubber to resist slipping in the fingers, it is easy to spin, the encoder step is felt.
In the front part of the mouse, under the button, there is a connector for charging the built-in battery of the mouse.
The lower part looks rather massive because of the side plates, there are areas for better mouse sliding, a power button, and there is also a niche where the mouse receiver is hidden during transportation.
Let's disassemble and see what we have inside. To do this, unscrew the two screws on the sides and remove the overlays.
Then we remove the rear leg from the bottom of the mouse, under it there are 2 more screws that need to be unscrewed. Pull the upper part of the case back and remove.
And before us appears the uncomplicated inner world of the mouse. It uses Boyue mics, which belong to the low segment, and instead of the main buttons, membrane mics are used for the campaign, which is why they are so quiet.
A replaceable battery of 14500 format without marking was used as a battery, although 600mAh was declared, my charge filled only 320. A replaceable battery is of course a plus, but for a minus capacity, although it may be enough for a long time, I don’t know yet. The antenna is etched into the main board. More giblets. 
The sensor works great on my A4tech fabric rugs, I have several. It also works fine on my computer desk under a tree, but on a white laminated surface, the sensor is buggy.
A photo of the backlight, seen in the video in action.
As a result, the mouse does not claim to be the laurels of a gaming mouse for shooters, although it is positioned this way by Chinese marketing, but playing strategy and RPG, as I play, is quite suitable for me. Therefore, for an undemanding user who does not want to bother replacing batteries in a mouse, it is quite suitable. Plus we will write down the possibility of replacing the battery, quiet main buttons, comfortable grip, although this is purely individual. The disadvantages are incorrect battery capacity, non-switchable backlight, although the son said that it was visible in the dark). I have wireless mouse for a laptop and I have been using it for 2 years already, it is very quiet and the 2400mAh battery that I put there has been working for 2 years, but it has one jamb, very tight buttons, sometimes you have to press twice or adjust the effort. Therefore, the new mouse will now be with a laptop, and the old one will lie in reserve.
Video version of the review.
- power supply of the mouse from its own built-in battery, which is not related to standard sizes and, as a rule, is not removable. Unlike replaceable batteries, such a battery does not need to be purchased separately - it comes with the mouse, so the device is ready to work out of the box. And in the process of work, you do not need to spend money on buying batteries - it is enough to charge the device from time to time. True, charging takes time and requires a power source; however, many rechargeable mice can be charged from a regular USB port while in use. The unambiguous disadvantage of batteries, in comparison with replaceable batteries, is the relatively low autonomy: in the most "long-playing" models it does not exceed 120 days, while many battery-powered mice can work for six months or even longer (in some devices - up to three years ). Besides, given type food significantly affects the price of the "rodent".
A wireless mouse is a very convenient thing and many people choose it. But, she has one very significant drawback. You have to change the battery every month, that's a fact. Some elements are not able to reach the end of this period.
From this follows the conclusion if you want to save money, never buy wireless mouse... Well, for those who have already taken it, we will tell you which battery for the mouse is better and will work longer.
What is the best mouse battery?
The best is the one that is able to work out long time... The user has the following choices:
- Purchase a new battery every month or every 2-3 weeks. Consumption of about 50 rubles per month.
- Take a battery cell of the required voltage, high capacity and to it. Costs 2000 rub. Enough for more than 1 year. If it works for more than 3 years, then the costs will be fully paid off. You can find a battery with USB recharge, then you can save on the charger.
According to people, the best batteries for a mouse are:
But unfortunately, in our time, no one is immune from fakes. As you know, the promoted brand is more often forged. Therefore, by purchasing the above mentioned batteries, the chance to stumble upon a bad product is reduced.
The types of batteries for the mouse can be as follows:
- Rechargeable.
Battery 1.5 volts and 1875mAh
How long does a wireless mouse last?
The lifespan depends on the type. If this is an ordinary salt or alkaline battery, then it will last for 2-4 weeks. Using the battery makes it possible to increase the time autonomous work up to 1 month. After charging, he can still work for the same period. Usually the battery lasts for several years. The main thing is to buy a good charger with a display for the battery.
How do I insert batteries into my wireless mouse correctly?
The process is simple enough. Switch off the device before replacing!
Would need:
- Mouse.
- New battery.
- Sharp nails 😊
- Possibly a screwdriver. It is needed if the compartment is screwed on with a screw. Or it is required to pry on the energy sources for pulling out.
Flip computer mouse on the back. Place the battery compartment towards you.
Remove the bolt holding the cover, if any. Or, gently push the holder latch.
Remove the old mouse batteries and replace them with new ones.
Observe strictly. That is, put plus to plus, and minus to minus. It will be so right!
More often than not, you only put one battery on the mouse, so everything should go smoothly. After the battery is installed, check if the device works. If everything is fine, then close the lid and use it to your health!
It is worth checking before closing the compartment. This saves time on opening and closing the lid in the event of a battery failure.
Video how to replace batteries in Apple Magic Mouse?
What to do if the battery in the mouse does not work?
If the battery has served its life and does not show signs of life, it should be replaced with a new one. To do this, go to a retail outlet or place an order in an online store. How to change the battery in the mouse if it runs out was described in the section above.
Replace only with a similar battery. Make sure that the size of the new energy source matches the old one. Also pay attention to the voltage, it should be identical to the shrunk one. Information about this is written on the case.
Salt batteries. Sometimes they are also called zinc-carbon, as well as "dry" batteries. The simplest and cheapest type of disposable batteries. They consist of a zinc glass (-) and a carbon rod (+), and mainly ammonium chloride is used as an electrolyte. This type of battery has small capacity of the order of 600 - 1000mA, and sometimes tends to leak, causing corrosion of the device in which it is installed. Not recommended for use in wireless mice. This battery will last for a maximum of a week of mouse operation. Cost from 0.25 USD
Step 2
Alkaline batteries (their subtype "alkaline", marking - LR). They are called so because they use alkali as an electrolyte. They have a large capacity of the order of 1700 - 2500 mA, they rarely flow, because the electrolyte is in a thickened state. Their advantages are low self-discharge current, withstand a wider temperature range. Disadvantages: high content of mercury, the price is several times higher than that of salt batteries. On these batteries, the mouse lasts an average of 2 weeks to 3 months, depending on the type of mouse and the quality of the batteries. A good option for mice is the Duracell Turbo LR03. Cost from 1.5 USD
Step 3
Lithium batteries. 1.5V versions (AAA - small and AA - finger) are made from lithium copper oxide. This is the most advanced type of battery described above. Has the designation FR. Not to be confused with lithium batteries, it is dangerous to charge lithium batteries! They have a higher capacity than alkaline batteries and do not contain mercury. Lasts 7 times longer than alkaline batteries. The big drawback is the price, sometimes reaching the cost of good batteries. Cost from 8 USD Of course, lithium batteries are the most durable, but unfortunately not everyone can afford it.
- You should not buy alkaline and lithium batteries in markets, trays, etc. - there you can easily sell expired goods that have lost their capacity.
- Most mice use the little finger form factor (AAA, R3, R03) batteries.
- Turn off the mouse when not in use, such as at night.
